Tag: travel writing

Do not Travel – A Short History

Do not Travel – A Short History

Five years ago, I became acquainted with the website SmartTraveller, hosted by Australia’s Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, or DFAT. I’d received a last-minute invitation to join a group travelling to Borneo. My immediate response was to consult our big World Atlas (I’m old school with maps), because I didn’t even know where Borneo was. My next move was to look at the SmartTraveller site for safety advice. It was my first encounter with the four-tier system of safety ratings by which the Australian government ranks destinations around the world. 

Green means ‘exercise normal precautions, as you would at home’. Yellow means ‘exercise a heightened degree of caution’. Orange means ‘reconsider your need to travel’. And red means simply ‘do not travel’. When I went to the website in February 2015 the island of Borneo was coloured a mixture of green, yellow and orange, but our whole itinerary fell within the green and yellow parts. I was good to go! 

Back then, red was reserved for a few places so terrible and tragic that an ordinary traveller wouldn’t even consider going there – places like Yemen, Syria and Afghanistan. Now, SmartTraveller has painted the whole world outside Australia red. 

To use a word we now hear constantly, it is unprecedented for the government to declare the whole world outside our borders a no-go area. But are there any precedents we can turn to for a sense of what this kind of shutdown might mean for the travel industry and for us as travellers?

The clearest precedent I can think of is the closure of continental Europe to British travellers during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. Britain was at war with France almost continuously from 1792 to 1815, and during that time it was virtually impossible for members of the public to visit ‘the Continent’. Except for a brief respite during the Peace of Amiens in 1802-3, Europe was effectively off-limits for a whole generation of British travellers. 

That didn’t mean that the British didn’t travel at all. When they couldn’t go overseas, they started to travel more at home, finding beauty and interest in natural and cultural environments right on their doorstep.

As historian Rosemary Sweet writes on the British Library website:

‘The closure of much of continental Europe during the Napoleonic Wars forced a generation of travellers to discover their own country: domestic tourism, already well established, enjoyed an unprecedented boom, as the outpouring of tour guides, works of topography and topographical prints from this period suggest.’

George Barret, Sr, Lake Ullswater: a party of tourists gathering to enjoy the prospects at the head of the lake 1781. Image in public domain.

It wasn’t that no one had ever travelled for pleasure within Britain before; rather, the inaccessibility of Europe heightened and concentrated an interest that already existed. Domestic travel itself wasn’t entirely new, but the boom in domestic travel was ‘unprecedented’. (There’s that word again!) 

The destinations that really took off in this domestic tourism boom were the Wye Valley on the English-Welsh border, Derbyshire, the Lake District and Scotland. Can you see what they have in common? They are – or at least they were – wild places, far from big cities, offering beautiful scenery as well as glimpses into deeply non-metropolitan ways of life, which were often savoured with a dash of Celtic exoticism. 

‘Wye Valley’ by Stefan Jürgensen, licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 

Whereas visitors to Europe on the Grand Tour wanted to see ancient ruins and great works of art, the domestic travel boom precipitated by Britain’s long-running war with France was more concerned with discovering picturesque scenes and scenery. Whereas the Grand Tour was essentially educational in orientation, the new domestic tourism focused on the search for sentimental experiences – for new feelings rather than new knowledge. Romantic art and literature had a lot to do with this, as they provided travellers with a new vocabulary for talking about the emotional effects of landscapes and remote places.

Jane Austen was well aware of that when, in chapter 27 of Pride and Prejudice (1813), she framed Elizabeth Bennet’s ecstatic response when invited by her aunt and uncle to accompany them on a ‘northern tour’. 

‘We have not determined how far it shall carry us,” said Mrs. Gardiner, “but, perhaps, to the Lakes.’

No scheme could have been more agreeable to Elizabeth, and her acceptance of the invitation was most ready and grateful. ‘Oh, my dear, dear aunt,’ she rapturously cried, ‘what delight! what felicity! You give me fresh life and vigour.’

Lizzie imagines that their trip will be all about seeing ‘lakes, mountains, and rivers’, a response typical of the new domestic tourism and very different from the focus on history and cultural monuments that characterised the European Grand Tour.

View in Dovedale, Derbyshire. Etching after George Cuitt, c.1797-1820
© The Trustees of the British Museum
This is the kind of scenery Elizabeth Bennet hoped to see on her ‘northern tour’.

The travel restrictions caused by the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars had two lasting effects on the history of tourism. The generation-long ‘closure’ of Europe to British travellers led to a complete redrawing of the domestic tourist map, with new destinations being discovered and popularized that are still at the forefront of British tourism today. (Scotland and the Lake District are perfect examples.) And when the wars finally ended in 1815 and British travellers rushed back to the Continent in greater numbers than ever before, the terms of the overseas travel experience had changed forever. The exclusively male, aristocratic Grand Tour was dead. Now, travel was for all – for women, for families, for the middle class and even, increasingly, for the working class. Within a few decades the era of mass tourism had begun.

So, what can we look forward to when the world map on the SmartTraveller website eventually returns to being a collage of green, yellow and orange instead of its current red? I don’t think we can imagine yet what the structural shift in the travel industry will look like, but I believe there will be one, just as there was in the early nineteenth century.

View of Chatsworth. Etching after Edward Dayes, 1794
© The Trustees of the British Museum
Lizzie Bennet would have seen views like this at Mr Darcy’s property, Pemberley, in Derbyshire.

In the mean time, domestic travel will be the winner. Although as I write this new internal border closures are being announced in Australia, as they have been in many other countries, once the worst of this crisis eases, it will be domestic destinations that reopen first. When that happens, let’s join Elizabeth Bennett in her rapturous response to the possibility of experiencing new scenes and say with her, ‘What delight! what felicity! You give me fresh life and vigour.’

Sir Francis Bacon’s Advice to Travellers

Sir Francis Bacon’s Advice to Travellers

Portrait of Sir Francis Bacon (1561-1626) by an unknown artist.

The other day, I came across the essay ‘Of Travel’ by the English Renaissance polymath Sir Francis Bacon. Published in 1601, the short (two-page) composition is a statement of advice to young men preparing to travel out of their own country. Setting aside the gender-exclusive character of the writing – it would have been unthinkable then for a young woman to go travelling for her own interest and pleasure – I found myself wondering how much of Bacon’s essay might still be relevant today. Here are three pieces of advice that caught my eye.

‘That young men travel under some tutor, or grave servant … such a one that hath the language, and hath been in the country before; whereby he may be able to tell them what things are worthy to be seen, in the country where they go …’

Personal tutors and servants – grave or otherwise – being in short supply these days, how can we now obtain this kind of personalized guidance for our travels? Well, one possibility is that genie in a bottle called Google, who lives inside our phones and devices, just waiting to do our beck and call. Google can tutor us on any subject, speaks countless languages and can instantly translate anything we need to say or understand. And there’s that other genie, Siri, who magically answers all questions and tells us how to find our way to where we’re going.

Yet I feel that these virtual tutors and servants don’t quite cover what Bacon had in mind, and this is where we need to think about the benefits of using real-life guides, actual people who speak the local language and know all the inside tips on where to go and what to see. 

Carl Spitzweg, c.1835, painting of English tourists with their guide near Rome. Creditline: Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Nationalgalerie / Fotograf: Jörg P. Anders

I used to shy away from tours and tour guides, preferring to discover new places on my own. Recently, for one reason or another, I’ve been on more tours, ranging in length from one hour to nine days, and now I understand the value of a really good guide. 

Five years ago, on my very first travel-writing gig, I toured King’s College Chapel at Cambridge, as a side trip from a luxury rail journey between Edinburgh and London. It was my third time there, and I felt sure that I’d already seen it all. Ten minutes into the tour with one of the excellent local guides, I was seeing details I’d never noticed before, and hearing stories that added layers of meaning to the architectural spectacle. I came away with a much fuller understanding of the building and its significance – and a huge respect for the learning of the guide who’d been my ‘tutor’ for the hour.

The intricate interior of King’s College Chapel (here painted by Joseph Murray Ince in the 1840s) is best interpreted by a well-prepared guide.

More recently, I did my first – and so far, only – multi-day tour with a single guide. For nine days, on Beyond Travel’s Sri Lanka Uncovered tour, my friend and I had the exclusive services of a licensed ‘chauffeur-guide’. The improbably named Milinda, a toweringly strong Sri Lankan man, not only drove us everywhere and explained the history and geography of everything, but also imparted a finer kind of local knowledge. How to open and eat a mangosteen, for example, and why all the drivers tooted their horns so often. 

He also added something extra to the itinerary, for which I’ll always be grateful: a visit to the Buduruwagala rock temple near Wellawaya, in the south of the island. Far from the main road, in a forest clearing where butterflies flitted across beams of light filtered through the tree branches, we stood in awed silence before seven giant figures carved into a cliff face, the largest being a 16-metre high representation of Buddha himself. There were no other tourists, and only two local people there. It was one of the most eerie, mysterious, but also serene and uplifting experiences I’ve ever had. And we never would have found it without our ‘grave servant’ – and now friend – Milinda.

Buddhist rock carvings at Buduruwagala, Sri Lanka. Picture credit: Angela Brooks.

‘Let him sequester himself, from the company of his countrymen, and diet in such places, where there is good company of the nation where he travelleth.’ 

This piece of advice definitely rings as true today as it did 400 years ago. If you find an eating establishment on your travels that is full of English speakers, don’t go in. Find one that’s full of people speaking the language of the country you’re visiting. That way, you’ll not only encounter more authentic cuisine, you’ll also have a chance to observe local manners. 

I have two standout memories of eating in local establishments with ‘good company of the nation’ where I was travelling. One was in Sicily, in the hilltop town of Monreale, 12km from Palermo. My husband and I had just visited the famous cathedral with its extraordinary Byzantine-style mosaic decorations. We stopped at a nearby restaurant for lunch, attracted by the sound of Italian voices within. As we were tucking into our delicious meal, we were astonished to see a troop of about thirty Italian schoolchildren enter and climb the stairs to an upper level, where they were served the same cuisine as us. They were on a school excursion and this was their lunch break – no McDonalds or packed lunches for them! It was a wonderful illustration of how Italians of all ages enjoy ‘la dolce vita’ as a kind of national birthright.

The restaurant in Monreale

My other most vivid recollection of eating with locals was having breakfast at the Bar El Comercio in central Seville. Its incredible ambience was created partly by the original Belle Epoque décor – chandeliers and painted tiles and marble-topped tables – and partly by the buzz of conversation as city workers fortified themselves for the day with strong coffee and decadent chocolate churros. To us it was a once-off treat, but to them it was an ordinary start to the day. What a culture!

‘When he stayeth in one city or town, let him change his lodging from one end and part of the town, to another.’ 

This third piece of advice from Sir Francis Bacon intrigues me. I can’t say that I’ve ever done it, at least not voluntarily, but I can see the point and I might try it next time I have more than a couple of nights in one city. To stay some of the time in the West End and some of the time on the South Bank or at Greenwich would certainly bring some variety to a London holiday, as would dividing a week in Paris between the Île-Saint-Louis and Montmartre. Have you ever done something like this? Would you recommend it?