Tag: coronavirus travel restrictions

Lockdown

Lockdown

When coronavirus restrictions were imposed six weeks ago and we began adjusting to life under lockdown, a memory started to tug at my mind. It was the memory of reading about another kind of lockdown, in a children’s story by Laura Ingalls Wilder called The Long Winter.

As a child growing up in Australia, I loved Wilder’s ‘Little House’ books, which are set in various locations on the American frontier during the late nineteenth century. I loved them passionately, in the way that children adore their very favourite books. I was the proud owner of a boxed set of the paperbacks issued by Puffin Books, and I read them all multiple times, from the first in the set, Little House in the Big Woods, to the final one, Little Town on the Prairie.

Wilder’s stories were first published in the 1930s and 40s, but recounted experiences from the author’s childhood in a pioneer family in America in the 1870s and 80s. I read them in the early 1970s. Now here we are in 2020 and I find myself pulling the little boxed set from the bookshelf and carefully – because the old paperbacks have stuck together with time – extracting a book I haven’t looked at for nearly fifty years.

Portrait of Laura Ingalls Wilder (Public Domain)

The Long Winter must have made a great impression on me, because I found myself thinking of it almost as we started to find the shape of our days under the new COVID-19 restrictions. No travel. No leaving the house except for essential purposes. No meetings with anyone outside the household. The restlessness of being cooped up. Tensions flaring within the family. A growing sense of isolation from the rest of society. I’d encountered it all before, in Wilder’s book.

The lockdown described in The Long Winter was not a response to disease, but the result of extreme weather conditions. It wasn’t mandated by law, but necessitated by physical survival. During an especially harsh winter that lasted nearly seven months, Laura and her family were confined to their prairie home in the Dakota Territory by an almost unbroken series of violent blizzards. The Long Winter tells how they survived.

One of Garth Williams’ charming illustrations to The Long Winter shows the family huddled around the stove.

At a practical level, the challenges the Ingalls family faced were beyond anything we pampered moderns can imagine. The struggle to stay warm and fed – or, at least, reasonably warm and somewhat fed – became a fulltime job involving the whole family. When their coal ran out, they had to twist strands of hay into sticks to feed the stove, and when their flour ran out, they had to mill wheat in a coffee grinder so that bread could be baked. Eventually, both the hay-twisting and the wheat-grinding became tasks that consumed the whole day, with mother, father and the three older daughters taking turns at each in rotation. Oh, and some basic home-schooling had to be fitted in there too.

Of course, there are lessons for us in this – about patience, and endurance, and doing what needs to be done. But the chasm in material conditions between the Ingalls’ lockdown and our own is too great for us to be able to identify with their ordeal in any practical sense. It’s at a psychological level that the story rings true to our experiences. 

Another Garth Williams illustration depicts Pa teaching Laura how to twist hay into sticks of fuel.

As Wilder’s story shows, without school and work and shopping and visitors, all the incidental movement and social contacts of normal life drop away, and there’s little left to make one day different from another. Get up, feed the fire, do the housework, prepare and eat meals, try to keep entertained with music and stories – the family is locked in a minimal and seemingly endless routine. ‘Laura felt that it was the same day over again’, and again ‘Another day was the same.’ 

The monotony is compounded by there being no end in sight. Blizzard follows blizzard. Things get worse before they get better. The horizon of hope recedes. Rumours that spring is coming, that the train bringing supplies to the town can finally get through the snow-filled passes, prove false. ‘Laura seemed to have forgotten summer; she could not believe it would ever come again.’

Train stuck in snow 1881, photograph by Elmer and Tenney, Minnesota Historical Society (Wikimedia Commons). The man standing on top of the train provides a sense of scale.

As the unprecedented becomes the new normal, old ways of life – going to school, visiting with friends – start to feel unreal. There seems something uncanny about those days, just before the shutdown, when nobody knew what was coming and all went unthinkingly about their ordinary lives. Those times of freedom and movement and connection seem ‘very far away and long ago’, as the circle of interest and activity shrinks, finally, to the single room they can heat.

There’s a lot in The Long Winter about discouragement in such circumstances and the need to fight against it, every day. One way that Laura and siblings are able to escape from their confined existence is through literature that transports them imaginatively to other places. At one point, in a chapter titled ‘Cold and Dark’, Laura and her younger sister Carrie recite Elizabeth Barrett Browning’s poem ‘The Swan’s Nest’, which creates a mental image of a beautiful riverside scene completely different from the actual physical environment of their house. ‘The air was warm and quiet there, the grass was warm in the sunshine, the clear water sang its song to itself, and the leaves softly murmured. The meadow’s insects drowsily hummed. While they were there with little Ellie, Laura and Carrie almost forgot the cold.’

My full collection of Wilder books, nine in all. Laura and Carrie used books to escape mentally from the misery of the prairie winter, whereas I grew up in sunny Australia reading about the marvels of blizzards!

As we make our way through this lockdown, there are plenty of ways for us to find a similar sense of being elsewhere, in imagination. Armchair travel, whether through fiction, non-fiction, books or film, is a powerful tool for fighting boredom and discouragement. And when we do return to travelling in the real world, I think we’re going to appreciate every single journey, however small or humble. Any change of scene will feel good; just to be in motion will be a blessing. In The Long Winter, when the cold weather finally ends, Laura makes a tiny journey, as far as the front room – the one they couldn’t use all winter because they weren’t able to heat it:

‘The May morning was warm and the wind from the prairie smelled of springtime. Doors were open and both rooms could be used once more. Going in and out of the large front room whenever she wanted to gave Laura a spacious and rested feeling, as if she could never be cross again.’

In spring and summer the prairie returns to life. Here’s a prairie dog enjoying the sunshine in South Dakota. (Image: Alice Petch)
Do not Travel – A Short History

Do not Travel – A Short History

Five years ago, I became acquainted with the website SmartTraveller, hosted by Australia’s Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, or DFAT. I’d received a last-minute invitation to join a group travelling to Borneo. My immediate response was to consult our big World Atlas (I’m old school with maps), because I didn’t even know where Borneo was. My next move was to look at the SmartTraveller site for safety advice. It was my first encounter with the four-tier system of safety ratings by which the Australian government ranks destinations around the world. 

Green means ‘exercise normal precautions, as you would at home’. Yellow means ‘exercise a heightened degree of caution’. Orange means ‘reconsider your need to travel’. And red means simply ‘do not travel’. When I went to the website in February 2015 the island of Borneo was coloured a mixture of green, yellow and orange, but our whole itinerary fell within the green and yellow parts. I was good to go! 

Back then, red was reserved for a few places so terrible and tragic that an ordinary traveller wouldn’t even consider going there – places like Yemen, Syria and Afghanistan. Now, SmartTraveller has painted the whole world outside Australia red. 

To use a word we now hear constantly, it is unprecedented for the government to declare the whole world outside our borders a no-go area. But are there any precedents we can turn to for a sense of what this kind of shutdown might mean for the travel industry and for us as travellers?

The clearest precedent I can think of is the closure of continental Europe to British travellers during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. Britain was at war with France almost continuously from 1792 to 1815, and during that time it was virtually impossible for members of the public to visit ‘the Continent’. Except for a brief respite during the Peace of Amiens in 1802-3, Europe was effectively off-limits for a whole generation of British travellers. 

That didn’t mean that the British didn’t travel at all. When they couldn’t go overseas, they started to travel more at home, finding beauty and interest in natural and cultural environments right on their doorstep.

As historian Rosemary Sweet writes on the British Library website:

‘The closure of much of continental Europe during the Napoleonic Wars forced a generation of travellers to discover their own country: domestic tourism, already well established, enjoyed an unprecedented boom, as the outpouring of tour guides, works of topography and topographical prints from this period suggest.’

George Barret, Sr, Lake Ullswater: a party of tourists gathering to enjoy the prospects at the head of the lake 1781. Image in public domain.

It wasn’t that no one had ever travelled for pleasure within Britain before; rather, the inaccessibility of Europe heightened and concentrated an interest that already existed. Domestic travel itself wasn’t entirely new, but the boom in domestic travel was ‘unprecedented’. (There’s that word again!) 

The destinations that really took off in this domestic tourism boom were the Wye Valley on the English-Welsh border, Derbyshire, the Lake District and Scotland. Can you see what they have in common? They are – or at least they were – wild places, far from big cities, offering beautiful scenery as well as glimpses into deeply non-metropolitan ways of life, which were often savoured with a dash of Celtic exoticism. 

‘Wye Valley’ by Stefan Jürgensen, licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 

Whereas visitors to Europe on the Grand Tour wanted to see ancient ruins and great works of art, the domestic travel boom precipitated by Britain’s long-running war with France was more concerned with discovering picturesque scenes and scenery. Whereas the Grand Tour was essentially educational in orientation, the new domestic tourism focused on the search for sentimental experiences – for new feelings rather than new knowledge. Romantic art and literature had a lot to do with this, as they provided travellers with a new vocabulary for talking about the emotional effects of landscapes and remote places.

Jane Austen was well aware of that when, in chapter 27 of Pride and Prejudice (1813), she framed Elizabeth Bennet’s ecstatic response when invited by her aunt and uncle to accompany them on a ‘northern tour’. 

‘We have not determined how far it shall carry us,” said Mrs. Gardiner, “but, perhaps, to the Lakes.’

No scheme could have been more agreeable to Elizabeth, and her acceptance of the invitation was most ready and grateful. ‘Oh, my dear, dear aunt,’ she rapturously cried, ‘what delight! what felicity! You give me fresh life and vigour.’

Lizzie imagines that their trip will be all about seeing ‘lakes, mountains, and rivers’, a response typical of the new domestic tourism and very different from the focus on history and cultural monuments that characterised the European Grand Tour.

View in Dovedale, Derbyshire. Etching after George Cuitt, c.1797-1820
© The Trustees of the British Museum
This is the kind of scenery Elizabeth Bennet hoped to see on her ‘northern tour’.

The travel restrictions caused by the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars had two lasting effects on the history of tourism. The generation-long ‘closure’ of Europe to British travellers led to a complete redrawing of the domestic tourist map, with new destinations being discovered and popularized that are still at the forefront of British tourism today. (Scotland and the Lake District are perfect examples.) And when the wars finally ended in 1815 and British travellers rushed back to the Continent in greater numbers than ever before, the terms of the overseas travel experience had changed forever. The exclusively male, aristocratic Grand Tour was dead. Now, travel was for all – for women, for families, for the middle class and even, increasingly, for the working class. Within a few decades the era of mass tourism had begun.

So, what can we look forward to when the world map on the SmartTraveller website eventually returns to being a collage of green, yellow and orange instead of its current red? I don’t think we can imagine yet what the structural shift in the travel industry will look like, but I believe there will be one, just as there was in the early nineteenth century.

View of Chatsworth. Etching after Edward Dayes, 1794
© The Trustees of the British Museum
Lizzie Bennet would have seen views like this at Mr Darcy’s property, Pemberley, in Derbyshire.

In the mean time, domestic travel will be the winner. Although as I write this new internal border closures are being announced in Australia, as they have been in many other countries, once the worst of this crisis eases, it will be domestic destinations that reopen first. When that happens, let’s join Elizabeth Bennett in her rapturous response to the possibility of experiencing new scenes and say with her, ‘What delight! what felicity! You give me fresh life and vigour.’