Tag: british history

Do not Travel – A Short History

Do not Travel – A Short History

Five years ago, I became acquainted with the website SmartTraveller, hosted by Australia’s Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, or DFAT. I’d received a last-minute invitation to join a group travelling to Borneo. My immediate response was to consult our big World Atlas (I’m old school with maps), because I didn’t even know where Borneo was. My next move was to look at the SmartTraveller site for safety advice. It was my first encounter with the four-tier system of safety ratings by which the Australian government ranks destinations around the world. 

Green means ‘exercise normal precautions, as you would at home’. Yellow means ‘exercise a heightened degree of caution’. Orange means ‘reconsider your need to travel’. And red means simply ‘do not travel’. When I went to the website in February 2015 the island of Borneo was coloured a mixture of green, yellow and orange, but our whole itinerary fell within the green and yellow parts. I was good to go! 

Back then, red was reserved for a few places so terrible and tragic that an ordinary traveller wouldn’t even consider going there – places like Yemen, Syria and Afghanistan. Now, SmartTraveller has painted the whole world outside Australia red. 

To use a word we now hear constantly, it is unprecedented for the government to declare the whole world outside our borders a no-go area. But are there any precedents we can turn to for a sense of what this kind of shutdown might mean for the travel industry and for us as travellers?

The clearest precedent I can think of is the closure of continental Europe to British travellers during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. Britain was at war with France almost continuously from 1792 to 1815, and during that time it was virtually impossible for members of the public to visit ‘the Continent’. Except for a brief respite during the Peace of Amiens in 1802-3, Europe was effectively off-limits for a whole generation of British travellers. 

That didn’t mean that the British didn’t travel at all. When they couldn’t go overseas, they started to travel more at home, finding beauty and interest in natural and cultural environments right on their doorstep.

As historian Rosemary Sweet writes on the British Library website:

‘The closure of much of continental Europe during the Napoleonic Wars forced a generation of travellers to discover their own country: domestic tourism, already well established, enjoyed an unprecedented boom, as the outpouring of tour guides, works of topography and topographical prints from this period suggest.’

George Barret, Sr, Lake Ullswater: a party of tourists gathering to enjoy the prospects at the head of the lake 1781. Image in public domain.

It wasn’t that no one had ever travelled for pleasure within Britain before; rather, the inaccessibility of Europe heightened and concentrated an interest that already existed. Domestic travel itself wasn’t entirely new, but the boom in domestic travel was ‘unprecedented’. (There’s that word again!) 

The destinations that really took off in this domestic tourism boom were the Wye Valley on the English-Welsh border, Derbyshire, the Lake District and Scotland. Can you see what they have in common? They are – or at least they were – wild places, far from big cities, offering beautiful scenery as well as glimpses into deeply non-metropolitan ways of life, which were often savoured with a dash of Celtic exoticism. 

‘Wye Valley’ by Stefan Jürgensen, licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 

Whereas visitors to Europe on the Grand Tour wanted to see ancient ruins and great works of art, the domestic travel boom precipitated by Britain’s long-running war with France was more concerned with discovering picturesque scenes and scenery. Whereas the Grand Tour was essentially educational in orientation, the new domestic tourism focused on the search for sentimental experiences – for new feelings rather than new knowledge. Romantic art and literature had a lot to do with this, as they provided travellers with a new vocabulary for talking about the emotional effects of landscapes and remote places.

Jane Austen was well aware of that when, in chapter 27 of Pride and Prejudice (1813), she framed Elizabeth Bennet’s ecstatic response when invited by her aunt and uncle to accompany them on a ‘northern tour’. 

‘We have not determined how far it shall carry us,” said Mrs. Gardiner, “but, perhaps, to the Lakes.’

No scheme could have been more agreeable to Elizabeth, and her acceptance of the invitation was most ready and grateful. ‘Oh, my dear, dear aunt,’ she rapturously cried, ‘what delight! what felicity! You give me fresh life and vigour.’

Lizzie imagines that their trip will be all about seeing ‘lakes, mountains, and rivers’, a response typical of the new domestic tourism and very different from the focus on history and cultural monuments that characterised the European Grand Tour.

View in Dovedale, Derbyshire. Etching after George Cuitt, c.1797-1820
© The Trustees of the British Museum
This is the kind of scenery Elizabeth Bennet hoped to see on her ‘northern tour’.

The travel restrictions caused by the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars had two lasting effects on the history of tourism. The generation-long ‘closure’ of Europe to British travellers led to a complete redrawing of the domestic tourist map, with new destinations being discovered and popularized that are still at the forefront of British tourism today. (Scotland and the Lake District are perfect examples.) And when the wars finally ended in 1815 and British travellers rushed back to the Continent in greater numbers than ever before, the terms of the overseas travel experience had changed forever. The exclusively male, aristocratic Grand Tour was dead. Now, travel was for all – for women, for families, for the middle class and even, increasingly, for the working class. Within a few decades the era of mass tourism had begun.

So, what can we look forward to when the world map on the SmartTraveller website eventually returns to being a collage of green, yellow and orange instead of its current red? I don’t think we can imagine yet what the structural shift in the travel industry will look like, but I believe there will be one, just as there was in the early nineteenth century.

View of Chatsworth. Etching after Edward Dayes, 1794
© The Trustees of the British Museum
Lizzie Bennet would have seen views like this at Mr Darcy’s property, Pemberley, in Derbyshire.

In the mean time, domestic travel will be the winner. Although as I write this new internal border closures are being announced in Australia, as they have been in many other countries, once the worst of this crisis eases, it will be domestic destinations that reopen first. When that happens, let’s join Elizabeth Bennett in her rapturous response to the possibility of experiencing new scenes and say with her, ‘What delight! what felicity! You give me fresh life and vigour.’

Visiting Sandringham, the Queen’s Country Home in Norfolk

Visiting Sandringham, the Queen’s Country Home in Norfolk

Sandringham House was built in the 1860s in the style of a Jacobean country hall.

Sandringham House has been in the news over the past week as the setting for a royal ‘summit’, held to discuss the crisis over Harry and Meghan’s decision to break away from the family firm. Having been to Sandringham as a sightseer, I thought readers might be interested to know what the house and grounds are like, and how to visit them.

Sandringham is in the county of Norfolk, about two-and-a-half hours’ drive from London. The house and gardens are open to the public daily from early April to mid-October. In winter, Sandringham is the Queen’s private country residence and therefore closed to the public, although the country park (243 hectares, mainly woodland) remains open all year. I was lucky enough to see the house and grounds on a private, after-hours tour with only about 30 other guests, which made the experience wonderfully relaxed and exclusive. You can read more about the various options for visiting Sandringham here.

The private evening tour included a champagne high tea in the old stables.

Purchased in 1862 as a family home for the newly married Prince of Wales (later Edward VII), the eighteenth-century ‘Sandringham Hall’ was almost completely rebuilt by 1870 to become the Victorian country house we see today. So, although Sandringham House, as it was renamed, has features that suggest older architectural traditions – such as the impressive Jacobean-style Saloon – in fact this royal residence isn’t particularly old. Nor is it especially grand, as such things go. Although a royal residence, Sandringham isn’t a castle or a palace. It is simply a pretty and very comfortable-looking country house.

It’s not the age or architecture of the house that draws visitors here. They come because of Sandringham’s close personal and domestic association with the last five generations of the British royal family. As you walk through the house, you can see many traces of the habits and personalities of the inhabitants. There’s always a jigsaw puzzle on the go on a side table in the Saloon, which also contains elaborate instruments for measuring wind speed and direction, to help with planning outdoor activities. Tupperware containers of breakfast cereals are set out, somewhat incongruously, in the elegant room where the royals have their morning repast – apparently the Queen is quite thrifty and doesn’t like to see opened packets go stale.

We weren’t allowed to take photographs inside, but my souvenir guidebook shows the interior furnishings.

Personalities from the past come to life here too. A beautiful folding screen in the Drawing Room is inset with photographs of visitors who came to the house in the late nineteenth century, including many celebrities of the time such as the poet Lord Tennyson. And a jockey’s weighing chair near the entrance shows how Edward VII measured the success of his hospitality. Guests were weighed upon arrival and departure, and were expected to gain weight during their stay – otherwise all the fine food served was considered to have been a failure!

Sandringham is much more than a house. It’s also an agricultural estate of nearly 3,000 hectares, which includes lavender fields, apple orchards and a horse stud. The grounds include about 25 hectares of beautifully landscaped gardens, and these are well worth visiting, regardless of whether you have any interest in British royalty or not. The gardens have been open to the public since 1908 – a great example of how the privilege of a few can become a benefit to many. During my visit, on an evening in late summer, I loved seeing the rich greenery of the gardens and woodlands, the luxuriant flower meadows and the reflections of house and sky in the lake. In fact, for me the gardens were more memorable than the house, so don’t miss these by any means.

The lakeside retreat built for Queen Alexandra, which she called her ‘Nest”.

If you’re planning to be in the UK in July (this year, or any year), you might consider making the Sandringham Flower Show part of your itinerary. 2020 will mark the 139th SFS, which makes the event quite a bit older than the more famous Chelsea Flower Show, held in London each May. Another way to experience the Sandringham estate is to stay onsite, either in a self-catering cottage or at a campground; see here for more information.

I find it significant that the ‘Megxit’ summit was held at Sandringham. Of course it makes sense that, this being the Queens’ winter residence, a January meeting would take place here, but I believe there could be more to it. Unlike grander royal residences such as Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle, Sandringham is a beloved family home for the Queen and her close relatives. Maybe holding the summit here was meant to remind Prince Harry of his family ties, at a personal level? Another interesting connection is that his mother, Princess Diana, was born and spent her early childhood at a house on the estate. Who knows what emotional connections were evoked by the summons to this particular royal residence?

Did you know?
The ‘Sandringham Company’, a military unit formed of men who worked on the Sandringham Estate, fought at Gallipoli in 1915, where all disappeared under mysterious circumstances. Their story was the subject of a BBC television drama, ‘All the King’s Men’, and is also told in an exhibition at the Sandringham Museum.